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Vise Nomenclature
Increasing Accuracy  Tramming the vise will make your cuts accurate enough for most decorative work and other non critical parts.  Most of us do not have a dial indicator  However, you can still get excellent accuracy by doing the following:  1. Tram your vise as you would normally. 2. Install a large cutter in the collet (we use a 1/2 end mill with 1 1/2 cut length)  3. Take a very light skim cut on the face of the jaw insert you will be clamping against.  There is no need to skim cut the moving jaw.  4. Enter half the diameter of the cutter as your new zero point (this could be a plus or minus number depending on which jaw you clamp against).  5. Use an accurate pin in your collet to set up an end stop.


Making deep cuts with a spiral upcut end mill can sometimes generate enough force to lift the workpiece out of the jaws. The solution is not to get a big wrench and crank the handwheel until something breaks. Just use some spray adhesive to stick sandpaper to the traveling jaw.  You will be able to use normal clamping pressure.
Front Left Right Bottom Top Back A C B B B B C Sequence of Cuts:  A B C Making Boxes  Mitered boxes are problematic when cutting on the spoil board.  The issue is always where to put the clamps.  With the vise you can cut up to and past the edge of box side.  Here is a bit of a guide for making boxes:                 After carefully setting up the table saw to cut a 45 degree angle (best done using something like a Wixey gage) cut the miters in the sequence shown above.  Make all A cuts, then B, then C.  Use a stop block on your fence.  Doing it this way insures that all the pieces will be the correct size.  The layout shown above is for a six sided box (one that would have the lid cut after being glued up.  If you are making a box without a mitered top just eliminate the Top piece.  I
Setting up Dual Vises for Cutting Mortises in Long Thin Parts